A new twist to my classes

Wow, it's been a while. But I have continued to present chicken classes at City Folks Farm Shop in Columbus, Ohio. Since COVID-19 has put a restriction on in-person classes tis Spring, I am trying out my first online class this Saturday, April 4.

Raising Urban Meat Chickens

https://www.facebook.com/events/195551595210515

This will be presented on Zoom and I'm going nationwide! 

I am planning a few more online classes and workshops this Spring and Summer. Check my Facebook page for more up to date details.

City Chicken Boot Camp

City Chicken Boot Camp

Ready, set, go!  This jam packed 3-week intensive on keeping chickens in an urban setting may leave your head spinning!  We will cover all the basics of urban poultry care and more like including healthcare, bio-security and permitting. Homework is required!
 
Week 1: Getting Started -- Urban Permitting, housing, chick rearing
Week 2: Raising a Flock -- Pullets, health, bio-security, chores
Week 3: The Laying Hen -- Laying, egg handling, maintenance

Classes will be held Nov. 1st, 8th, and 15th from 6:30-9pm at City Folks Farm Shop, 4760 N. High Street, Columbus, 43214
Cost for the class is $89. The price includes all three sessions. Register here via Google Form. City Folks Farm Shop will contact you via phone or email to take payment for the class, or you may pay in person at the shop. Your registration is not complete and we cannot hold your place in the class without payment.


Facebook Link to Register

City Folks Farm Shop

City Chicken Boot Camp Preview

Bird Flu Update

April 25, 2015
 

Avian Influenza is back in the news this spring. The Mississippi Flyway is a very important and busy route for migratory birds and waterfowl.  Avian Flu has been found in birds using and living in this migratory flyway. As of right now, 71 outbreaks of Avian Flu in 13 states have occurred in the US since December 2014, with 11 of those backyard flocks.

 

Avian Influenza has been around for over 20 years. Each year we hear of a strain of bird flu that has been found in wild and domestic birds. Many times it is reported in another country, sometimes it exists in our own backyard. Sometimes it’s a new mutated virus, sometimes it’s an old one cropping up again. The strains discovered affecting birds this year are H5N8 and H5N2. These strains are not expected to mutate to be a threat to humans. The strain of bird flu previously discovered in humans is H5N1. According to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, since 2003 there have been 650 human infections in 15 different countries. And these infections occurred in people who had direct contact with infected poultry. 

According to an article in the Scientific American, 

"Avian influenza thrives in warm wet weather. Sunshine will kill the virus. So once the warmer weather of summer arrives, our risks are drastically minimized." You can read more here.

Humans are at a low risk of infection from this year’s virus. It’s the large flocks of commercial poultry that can be drastically depopulated with a few outbreaks. Georgia, Arkansas, Mississippi, Alabama, Indiana and Ohio are large poultry and egg producing states. These states, and many egg producers in other states, lie in the migratory flight way of many species of wild birds and waterfowl. Due to the rearing tactics of the larger commercial growers, the birds are at a higher risk of infection. Mainly because of the sheer number of birds in one location. One infectious outbreak can ruin an agri-business. 

 

Identifying Avian Flu 

H5N2 spreads quickly through an infected flock, killing most of the birds. Keep an eye on your flock and stay alert to these symptoms:

Symptoms

• Sudden increase in bird deaths in your flock
• Sneezing, gasping for air, coughing and nasal discharge
• Watery and green diarrhea
• Lack of energy and poor appetite
• Drop in egg production or soft- or thin-shelled misshapen eggs
• Swelling around the eyes, neck and head
• Purple discoloration of the wattles, combs and legs
• Tremors, drooping wings, circling, twisting of the head and neck, or lack of movement.

Click here to read more about backyard flocks and avian flu from "The Poultry Site".

Tips for Protecting Poultry Flocks

• Isolate your birds from visitors and other birds
• Prevent germs from spreading by cleaning shoes, tools and equipment
• Also clean vehicles and cages
• Avoid sharing tools and equipment with neighbors
• Watch for early signs to prevent the spread of the disease
• Report unusual signs of disease or unexpected deaths to your local cooperative extension office, county health department or the Ohio Department of Agriculture 
• ODA Animal Disease Hotline: (800) 300-9755

My New Hen Isn't Laying Anymore

Let's say you just got some laying hens from a trusted friend. You picked them up and brought them home. You put them in their coop and showed them around. The next day you get eggs! Yay! You get eggs the day after that. YAY, fresh eggs! Then, on the 4th day, you don't get any eggs. This continues for about two weeks. No eggs. What happened? Why aren't my new hens laying?

Shock. Plain and simple. They have been moved to a new place, new surroundings, new feed, new people, new 4-legged critters to deal with.Your new hens are in culture shock. But they were laying right after they arrived, you may say. Yes, I'm sure this is true. Now I'm going to let you in on the reason why.

A hen has egglets or yolk seeds in her ovaries. These egglets slowly mature and when they are large enough, the yolk begins to move down the hen's ovaduct where it gathers the albumin, shell and pigment. It takes 26 hours for a mature yolk to form into an egg. Several of your hen's yolks were ready to move down the oviduct at the time they were moved to their new place. So, your new hen lays what is ready to go in her ovaries, which is about 3-4 days worth of eggs. The shock of a move put the damper on maturation of any more eggs.

Don't worry, this is normal. Your new girls will begin to lay again soon, usually about 2-3 weeks after a move you should be back to full production. In the meantime, let her get to know you by feeding treats and plenty of exploring time outside.

Introducing New Chickens to Your Existing Flock Part 2

In my last post I covered how to introduce chicks to your existing flock. I think this is by far the best method for expanding your flock.

But let's say you are a backyard chicken enthusiast and you happen to stumble into a free chicken giveaway from a trusted friend. Can you adopt the giveaways? Should you adopt the giveaways???

My practice, which is shared by many large flock owners, is "All in, all out" meaning all hens stay together and I treat them as one unit. I usually do not add more to an existing flock. When it's time to get new birds, I cull the existing flock, clean and disinfect the coop and move the new girls in. All in, all out.

But, sometimes it doesn't work that way. Sometimes you may have to introduce new hens to an existing flock. If this happens to be you, follow these steps to introduce the new birds safely without too much anxiety. The following steps apply to adult chickens only. Do not blend adult and juvenile chickens.

1. Before bringing the new chickens onto your property, visually inspect the birds to make sure they are healthy and fit.

2. Even if they look fine, isolate the new birds. Set up a temporary pen away from your current chickens. Do not put new chickens next to existing flock until they have been given a clean bill of health by an avian vet. Sometimes chickens can be carriers of disease and show no outward sign.

3. Chore your old birds before your newly acquired birds if wearing the same clothing and boots. Do not chore the new birds before the old birds without changing clothes and shoes. This helps to prevent spread of disease.

4. Once you are sure the chickens are healthy, set up their temporary pen next to the pen of your existing flock. Do not allow the chickens to mingle yet. Let them get used to each other for a week or so by living next door.

5. After the hens seem to be friendly toward each other (one-two weeks), you may put them together. Do this after dark when the chickens are on the roost.

6. Re-establishing the pecking order. Keep a close eye on the hens during the next few weeks. Chickens have a pecking order. This is a hierarchical system innate to the chicken. You cannot prevent the pec
king that occurs within the pecking order, but you can influence it somewhat.

• Provide extra areas and roosts for chickens to retreat from bossy hens. 
• Use Blue Kote or other pecking deterrents. 

Here's what I used to do. If one or more chickens is suffering from too much pecking, take out the most dominant BOSSY hen, not the poor beat up hen. Put said BOSSY hen in temporary isolation crate out of sight of the rest of the flock. Treat beat up hen(s) with Blue Kote. Leave BOSSY hen in isolation for a week, or until an obvious new bossy hen emerges. Re-introduce BOSSY hen. She has now lost her place as the dominant hen. The whole pecking order of the flock must be re-established. Many times, BOSSY hen will find herself a few rungs lower than when she left. Continue to watch hens and repeat BOSSY hen removal if needed.

Introducing New Chickens to Your Existing Flock Part 1

Japanese Bantam hen with chicks

So, you want to expand your flock with minimal work and hassle. You don't really have time for brooding new chicks and you want your existing flock of chickens to accept your new chicks without bloodshed. Well, here's the best way I know to accomplish this goal. Let one of your existing hens do the work for you. Let a broody hen care for and raise your chicks so you don't have to. 

Cruise through the area hatcheries and find chicks that you can order on short notice. Above is what Meyer Hatchery has available on short notice for this week. You will have to be flexible, since you will have to wait for your hen to go broody before you order your chicks. This late ordering will limit your choices. Be open and flexible to accept other breeds or a "hatchery assortment".

I suggest setting up a special cozy brooding box/nest for your hen prior to anybody going broody. Put it in a location somewhat away from the rest of the flock, like off in an unused corner. Place a few golf balls in there to encourage sitting and hopefully a hen will choose it as a safe place to raise her "brood". 

Broody Buff Orpington

Next step. Wait. Yes, wait for one of your hens to go broody. This will happen anytime from April 1 to July 1, and many times later than that.

Broody Easter Egger

If you have never seen a broody hen, it will be obvious when it happens in your flock.  One of your hens will start sitting in the nesting box all the time. When you approach her, she will start to snarl and growl and may peck at you, letting out what seems to be her inner dinosaur. You will swear this chicken is PMSing.... She'll be all puffed up and very clucky. She will refuse to leave the nest. If she does leave, (or you pull her out) her puffed up, clucky self runs back to the nest as quick as she can, screaming at you all the way. Once she has chosen a nesting site, she will not want to move it.

Old English Game bantam 

Some chickens are bred not to go broody. These include the modern hybrid layers like Golden Comets or any Black Sex-links and Leghorns. Most chickens bred for good egg production are not good mothers. The hens most inclined to go broody are Buff Orpingtons, Bantams of any sort, English breeds and Easter eggers.

Silver Seabright hen

Once one of your hens starts to exhibit these signs, you only have 20 days to get your chicks.  Call up your hatchery of choice and order chicks for 2-3 weeks from the first day your hen acted broody. You see, a chick takes 21 days from the beginning of incubation to hatch. Typically it will take 24 hours for all chicks to hatch. The hen has a inner clock that recognizes this three week time frame, and may not take chicks earlier or much later than 21 days.

Ok, your broody hen has been sitting on golf balls for 21 days. You have picked up your chicks from the hatchery and cuddled with them for a few hours. Late that evening, under the cover of darkness, take the fluffy balls of joy and gently place them them under your broody hen. You can fit up to 8 chicks under one hen.

Now, sit back and watch your momma hen do all the work. You will have to put out chick feeders and waterers that are easy reach for the babies She will keep the chicks warm, show them how to eat, how to drink, how to scratch in the dirt and hunt for worms and bugs. The broody hen will protect her chicks from other flock members and the chicks will benefit from her ranking in the flock's pecking order. This is by far the best method for expanding your flock naturally with a minimum amount of effort on your behalf.

Look for Part Two of expanding your flock with adult hens later this week.

Roosting Above the Mud

Lots of rain today and severe weather predicted all week. Mud is everywhere. What's a little hen to do? You know how she doesn't like to step in the mud. She is a princess afterall. She's laying lots of eggs for you now, so show her a little favor in return. Give her an outside roost. Hens like to get up on the highest perch available, anytime. My bantams would somehow wind up 12' high in the rafters of their grainery-coverted-to-a-chicken coop.

Most hens would rather be outside, enjoying the sun, the breeze and the fresh air. They also like to nap in the afternoon.  A roost of some sort which is up off the ground and allows them to stay outside would be ideal for your girls. Be careful not to put the perches too high. Any distance above ground level works. Although they are yard birds, they are still birds and need to perch.

Map Your Urban Flock!

There are more of us than you think. This site has a Google map of all the urban flocks across the world.  Let's get Columbus, Ohio on the map.

Map Your Flock on Google

9 Uses For All Those Extra Eggs!

Those of you with laying hens are probably seeing the springtime explosion of eggs. Well, it is Spring, the welcoming of the new, the days are longer, the nights are shorter, and the girls are eager to be out and about, foraging for worms and grassy shoots.

Let's talk about eggs. You probably have more than you can eat right about now. So what to do with all of them? Each egg is a small gift, so it's important to treat them that way. Here are a few ways I use excess eggs.

1. Feed them back to the hens or to new chicks. Yes, you can do this, but please do not feed them raw eggs, as that can lead to egg eating. Hard boil them, then smash the eggs with a potato masher really good, shell and all, until they resemble hard scrambled eggs. Then feed the eggs as a noontime treat or instead of regular chicken feed for one meal, here and there.

2. Give them to neighbors. You can easily develop and maintain good relations with your neighbors by giving them a 1/2 doz or so here and there.

3. Give to dogs. Develop a nice shiny coat and give a protein boost to your family dog by cracking an egg over Rover's dinner kibble. Yummy! But be careful! I recommend cooking the eggs first then give Rover the treat. Feeding raw eggs can lead to the farmer's bane, the egg sucking dog. Also, you can feed those frozen eggs to Rover.

4. Easter eggs. Nuff said

5. Egg crafters. Find folks, like me, who do egg crafts. Crafters will pay more per egg, but they must be blemish free.

6. Freeze the eggs for later. Crack the eggs into small freezer containers. You can leave them whole or separate yolks from whites before freezing them in small quantities. In the middle of winter you can have eggs for baking and eating.

7. Deviled eggs go over great at potluck dinners!

8. French toast cassarole is the bomb for Sunday brunch.
Maple Cream Cheese French Toast Casserole

9. Use eggs for face masks and in beauty treatments
5 Facial Masks with Eggs

Springtime in Ohio, what a muddy mess!

Having chickens means you probably have bare dirt in your run or yard where the chickens have eaten everything that was once green. Chickens definitely take it down to bare dirt! Come Spring, it turns into a nasty muddy mess. This is the wettest time of year and it plays havoc with backyard poultry keepers.

 Chickens don't like the mud. They would prefer not to step on soft muddy ground. They would prefer not to drag those muddy feet into the nesting boxes and dirty up the pretty eggs. but I tell you one thing, they prefer to drink out of puddles! You may have fresh water available to the hens 24/7 but those puddles are irresistible.

If you have a flooded coop or pen, you must act quickly to remove the soiled bedding, mud and puddles.

1. Distract the chickens from the puddles and mud with an enticing treat.
2. Lock them away from the muddy mess while you are cleaning.
3. Take out all the wet bedding. Yes, all of it. Don't cheat on this one. Rake off the top layer of wet bedding and look for wet bedding underneath.
4. Remove wet bedding to compost pile or bin.
5. Allow wet area to dry as long as possible.
6. Sprinkle Sweet PDZ (indoors only) or other barn lime to assist with odor control and drying time.
7. Once dry, add bedding. Stir new bedding into existing bedding and then add chickens.

A variety of perches help keep hens clean and dry.

If the chicken run outside is soaking wet, keep chickens off of it as long as possible, especially if there are puddles. This is one reason why it's a great idea to put roosts up high off the ground in the chicken run or have other areas for the chickens to perch above the ground.

If you put bedding down to absorb the wet outside, you will need to remove it asap before the chickens are permitted to run on the area. I suggest using sand in the run to prevent puddles.

Spring Cleaning

I've been in the nesting mode for a bit lately. This started when i was recently in Florida staying with my aunt. We went thru everything on her ground level of her house, cleaning, throwing out and organizing. It's amazing what a person can accumulate over the years. this prompted me to clean out my own basement and now I've moved to cleaning out my blog and reorganizing. If you have been here before, you will notice some differences. I have added pages to this site and the navigation is along the top of this page. A classes page is now a necessity, as I have several on board for this spring and summer at City Folks Farm Shop.

If you have a topic you are interested in seeing, drop me a line and I would be happy to write an article or post a hot tip!
denise.l.beno@gmail.com

March Classes

In January, I taught a three-week course on urban poultry titled "Urban Chicken Boot Camp" held at City Folks Farm Shop. It was a great class with great local folks attending. We've had enough interest to schedule another class, starting March 18th. Visit City Folks Farm Shop for details and sign-up information.

Chicken Boot Camp

2015 Home and Garden Show

Last night I braved the fierce cold (4F with wind) to prresent a talk on urban poultry at the Columbus Home and Garden show. We had several interested folks attend the show. If you missed my talk, "The Cluck Factor: Adding Poultry to your Urban Landscape", I've posted a link here. There is no text or dialog with the presentation, but the pretty pics may be inspiring.

The Cluck Factor: Adding Poultry to Your Urban Landscape

If you want more, check out my upcoming class, "Urban Chicken Boot Camp", at City Folks Farm Shop.

Urban Chicken Boot Camp

Hang on, Spring is coming!

Welcome 2015 and the Spring Chick Catalogs

Congratulations! We have made it another lap around the sun! Bright blessings to all for a prosprous and predator free new year!  I'm thrilled that this new year has been so sunny, despite this cold artic blast.

This is the time of year that I look forward to the chick hatchery catalogs. Like a gardener drools over the Spring seed catalogs, many a chicken farmer delight in their Spring chick catalogs. Planning a flock is so much fun! If you are planning a flock for this coming year, or just want to drool over your own chick catalogs, follow the links below to request a catalog from well-known hatcheries.

Meyer Hatchery Catalog


Murry McMurry Hatchery Catalog


Hoover's Hatchery Catalog


Welp Hatchery Catalog


Townline Hatchery

Cackle Hatchery Catalog Request Form

Seabright Bantam hen

Think twice before feeding free choice...

In January, I presented a class on chicken feed at City Folks Farm Shop here in Columbus. I came to the topic of whether or not to feed free choice. By the sound of the murmurs in class, I gathered that most attendees fed their chickens free choice. This somewhat surprised me. Chicken feed is one of the highest expenses of keeping poultry. My strong recommendation is NO, do not offer feed free choice.  Here are my reasons why:

1. A free-ranging hen only requires about 1/3 lb of chicken feed a day. If fed twice daily, your hens should be finishing their breakfast and dinner in about 15-20 mins. If there is feed left after that time, you have feed them too much.

2. Any feed remaining in the feeder is a HUGE attraction for rodents, wild birds, insects and other unwanted pests. My area of Columbus is already suffering from a rat infestation. I certainly don't want to add to the problem.

3. If your feeder is located outside, use caution to avoid the rain and damp. Once feed is wet, it can easily grow molds which put your poultry at risk for sickness or disease.

4. Wasted feed. We've all experienced this. Feed is kicked out of the feeders by scratching, bumping into the feeder, etc. The hens will pick out the yummy whole or partially cracked grains and leave the powdery protein and vitamins. Rationing encourages your girls to clean up the small feed particles in  the bottom of the feeders.

5. Rationing encourages your hens to forage in the yard. 'Nuff said.

6. Don't offer too many "treats" to your hens. You want your chickens to eat their feed, which has been formulated to be a well balanced diet.

7. Reduce your feed bill. Maximize your feed dollar and your hen's feed conversation ratio.


So, ration your girls feed. :-) Feed your hens twice a day, at roughly the same time each morning and evening. If you have 6 hens, you should be feeding about two lbs of feed a day--one pound in the morning and one in the evening. You can feed treast in the middle of the day, especially if they are not able to range in the yard. Remember, a fat hen still only lays one egg a day.

Upcoming Poultry Classes

I am excited about the great line-up of classes I'm presenting beginning this January. I'm featuring classes for the new chicken keeper, along with topics for those of us who are currently keeping chickens and want to learn more. To register for any class featured below, contact Shawn at City Folks Farm Shop.

Classroom at the Urban Coop
Wednesdays,  Jan 15 to March 5, 2014 6:30 to 8pm  Cost: $99
This is an 8-week class series on keeping chickens in an urban setting. We will cover everything from permitting and city code, raising chicks to egg production and health and safety. Certificate presented.

Working for Chicken Feed
Thursday, Jan 23, 2014 6:30pm  Cost: $25
In this one night class, we will cover everything you need to know about maintaining a healthy diet for your backyard flock. This workshop coincides with the introduction of a bulk grains section at City Folks Farm Shop. We will be blending up some tasty chicken feed that you could serve for breakfast at your own table!  Bring a spoon for this hands-on course.

Chicken Boot Camp
Wednesdays, March 19-April 2, 2014  Cost: $45
Ready, set, go!  This jam packed 3-week intensive on keeping chickens may leave your head spinning!  We will cover all the basics of urban poultry care. Homework is required!

Poultry 2.0+
Tuesdays, March 18-April 8, 2014  Cost: $65
Join local "friends of a feather" as we explore more advanced topics such as: successfully increasing your flock, diagnosing illness and other chicken maladies, developing your own feed recipes, other poultry such as geese, turkeys, quail, ducks, etc.

To register, contact Shawn at City Folks Farm Shop  614.946.5553
shawn@cityfolksfarmshop.com

Snow Chickens

Now that we have had several snowfalls here in Central Ohio, you have probably experienced the amusement of watching your chickens deal with the snow. Each flock is different and individuals deal with it differently.

For the most part, my hens were snow woosies.  They did not want to get their feet wet, or the snow was too cold, or whatever.  I'm sure it was complaining that I heard in their voices. If there was snow outside of the pop hole door in the morning, the boss hens would gaze outside and contemplate their next move.  Usually, the decision was to go out, but how to avoid the snow was the question.  Many times there were bare spots near the coop, which would allow the girls access to the outside without having to walk on the snow. Usually, a couple hens would "accidentally" walk in the snow, and then they would realize that it really wasn't the big deal they initially made it out to be. At that point, it was OK to walk in the snow. Such drama queens!

I always loved the tenacity of my hens.  Most wanted to be outside, not matter what.  This group of hard core hens usually included several Barred Rocks. I did have a few though, who took one look outside and turned around. Some would attempt to fly onto a bare spot, giving it their best effort, but usually falling short. Some would opt to stay in, others would leap to perches or bare spots outside. If the boss hens took too long deciding on their course of action at the door, sometimes a more timid, but very determined bird would tuck and run towards outdoor freedom, getting pecked the whole way. This usually resulted in the timid runner shrieking as she exploded out the door, leap-flying her way toward a bare spot or safe place to perch. This was usually a Leghorn, but occassionally my Americana hens would do this too.

Even tho I had thousands of chickens, I babied them as much as I could. Most times, after a big snow, I would lay down some old hay or straw outside of their pop hole door and around in the paddock area. A few arm fulls, or a couple flakes of hay made a very nice mat for the hens to walk on outside. Some days, the wind was just too strong or too cold, and I did not open the doors for them that day. Those days they got other treats and goodies to keep them busy such as an old cabbage, pumpkins, sunflower heads, or expired produce I managed to procure from one of my egg accounts.

All in all, hens get through the snowy season just fine. Encourage your girls to get outside. They need the sun this time of year. Enjoy their snowy season antics!

My Top 10 Chicken Breed Recommendations for the Urban Flock

Are you thinking about getting chickens?  Check out my recommendations for urban poultry breeds for your backyard.

Top 10 Urban Flock Breeds

Upcoming Chicken Class

Tuesday, October 29th, I will be presenting a class on "Winterizing the Urban Flock", beginning at 6:30 pm at City Folks Farm Shop in Clintonville, Columbus, Ohio.

In this class, I will be teaching basic guidelines for keeping your flock warm and happy over a typical Ohio winter.  I will also have tips for you, the chicken keeper, on coping with daily chores and unhappy hens during the winter months. Only a few spaces left for this informative course.  Contact CFFS today to register!

Chickens and Tomatoes

So much is happening at the farmstead this time of year. The garden is now into harvest mode. The year's first honey has flowed, the young livestock are weaning and the pressure canner stands at the ready in the corner of the kitchen, clean and ready for processing the harvest. It's a busy time of year as preparations are made for the upcoming winter months.

The spring chicks have been growing and exploring all summer. The young pullets are beginning to lay and entering into the next stage of their lives as hens. The older hens, your good layer girls, are beginning to molt and may have stopped laying for a while. It's vacation time for them.

 

Cross the harvest with your chickens and it can spell disaster or a delightful composting system. Chickens love ripe tomatoes. In fact, chickens love most anything red. Try wearing red socks or shoe laces into the coop sometime! They are drawn to the color red, as are most animals, and will find their way into your garden if you have not secured it well. There is nothing more disappointing than to go to the garden to pick your first ripe tomato, only to find that it had been previously enjoyed by one of your free ranging yard birds.

Tomato tips

-Do not feed too many. Remember the addage, "Everyting in moderation". Tomato is a nightshade and nightshades need to be used with caution.

Use chicken wire to protect plants in your garden

-Do not substitute tomatoes for chicken feed. Hens need protein to produce eggs. If they do not have enough protein, they may stop laying. 

-Do not allow your chickens to roam freely in the garden. Wire off your tomatoes and other yummy vegetables so there will be veggies for you and your family.

-I've heard several people say, "I gave my chickens tomatoes and they stopped laying."  I know this has happened to some folks and I think I have an explanation as to why. Tomatoes come ripe at the same time of year as the annual molt begins in poultry. If chickens are eating lots of tomatoes, they may not have room for their regular poultry feed. Not enough protein in their diet will reduce egg production.

Too much tomato!

Chickens make wonderful composting animals. After your garden has run it's course, or after the frost, fence it off and let the chickens clean it up before winter sets in. Their efforts make winterizing the garden less of a chore.